Completed Locust Medium Panzermech

Following up on my previous post, now that my Locust Panzermech was built and I had a striking pose for the model, it was time to paint it. The steps I followed were identical to the ones I took when painting up my P43(bis), so be sure to follow the instructions laid out there if you wish to undertake a similar paint job and wish to have more detailed instructions.

As always have some visual references to follow along with and use as guides when painting; this helps to ensure that capture all the details you wish to  capture on your model.

As a quick note: I primed the model using Army Painter Necrotic Flesh Spray Primer.

Step 1: Brown Splotches

The trick here is to make sure each side of the miniature has an even amount of brown splotches. Try to be random but strategic in your application as to make this happen.

Step 2: Lots of Green Splotches

Really in this stage, your goal here is to add on the green splotches. These can be the same size as the brown ones or smaller (I would avoid going bigger with the green ones). Either way, be consistent once you decide.  Also you must remember to leave an outline between the green and brown splotches!

After about an hour of this, you may start to wonder why in Thor’s mighty name you decided to do this, but keep plugging along. You may lose your mind in the process, but the end results are worth it.

Oh, why?! Why did I think this was a good idea?!

The trouble really becomes noticeable when you start getting to all those hard edges, the nooks and crannies of the sides of the walker. Just remember to take your time and be patient.

A suggestion here is to not get bogged down adding two thin coats to each splotch. Get all your splotches on first, then go back an add additional coats or highlights to your splotches. Otherwise you will burn out before you complete them.

Step 3: Details, Corrections, Touch Ups, and Basing

At this stage, you want to focus on adding in your detailing. Paint in the gun barrels and the Nebelwerfer tubes, the vision ports, the ventilation slits on the back, all the springs and hydraulics, the jump tech on the back, and anything else you might have added to the walker. At the same time, touch up any mistakes or overspill during the first two steps and really take care to consider every angle when inspecting your model.

At this stage you also want to consider adding the ground cover for basing your model if you haven’t already done so. I am going for a semi-arid or arid terrain for this model (Near East, Mediterranean, and Italian Theaters), so sand was the way to start that process off. Remember, just add the ground material (texture paint or sand or gravel or grit, etc…).

DO NOT add the Static Grass or Flock at this stage. If you do it now before matte varnishing, you risk getting static grass clippings all over your model!

See, I told you a little patience and tenacity can go a long way!

NOTE: If you want to add any decals, do it now before the next step.

Step 4: Washing and Weather

At this point you want to wash over the whole model. I mix my own washes, so for this I used Pledge with Future Shine, a little bit of water, Umber Wash from Vallejo, and Soft Tone Ink Wash from Army Painter. The exact recipe escapes me presently, but you definitely want something akin to a filter. The idea is that you want to be able to fill in all the crevices of the walker, tie in all the colors, filter it down, but not lose any of the hard work you put into the splotches! If you are a little new to washes and filters and aren’t comfortable mixing your own, you can just use one of the AK Interactive Filters–however if you decide to do this, definitely coat your model with a Satin or Gloss varnish. Make sure every bit of your model is covered with varnish before applying the enamel wash!

Make sure you let this wash dry thoroughly. Do not handle the model while the wash is still wet. Pledge with Future Shine will add a gloss sheen to your model, so it can be a little tricking knowing for sure, but use the back end of a brush to lightly check areas of the model that are out of view in case they are still wet.

Once dry, you can begin your weathering. I wanted to imitate the art in the book, so rather than do the professional method of adding battle damage, I went for something more subtle. I used a black wash (using a mix of Dark Tone Ink from Army Painter and Black Ink from Vallejo, with a heavy amount of Pledge with Future) to add scoring on the armor and then when that dried, I used German Grey to darken up certain areas around the scoring. With a bit of blister pack foam torn to shape, I dabbed on German Grey along areas I wanted to have chipping and wear. I then repeated this step using Vallejo Air Steel, applying it using blister foam over the areas I had dabbed with German Grey. I then added thin streaks of Steel to areas I had scored with the black wash.

Step 5: Final Touches

Once your weather is done, you can add any additional details you want. As I was using the art from the book as a template, I free-handed the RSI Italian flag in the same area it is in the artwork. You can also see the subtle weathering and battle damage effects:

 Matte varnish your model and let it dry thoroughly before you complete your basing.

And then you’re done! You made it! Whew.


Not that far off from the artwork, if I do say so myself!


Thanks for reading!

Please remember to like, share, and subscribe to this blog to stay up to date on all my projects!

Comment below and let me know how I can improve these tutorials or if you just want to tell me how much I suck at painting.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s